Shark diving at Gansbaai

4 09 2009

Woefully belated post on the shark diving we did in Gansbaai (nr Cape Town).  Six of us went, Adam, Meg, Chips, Trouve, Caro and myself, and six of us returned…almost.  Nothing to do with the sharks, but on the way back in the boat is was quite rough, and we really thought Trouve was going to lose it.  Fortunately, he pulled through.  Here’s some footage and photo’s of the outing, which I will be sending to the respective people above once I pull my finger out.

In the meantime, enjoy!

Trouve, Adam and Chips - very very snug!

Trouve, Adam and Chips - very very snug!

Meg - also very snug, not as snug as Trouve, Adam and Chips

Meg - also very snug, not as snug as Trouve, Adam and Chips

A shark

A shark

The shark and the cage

The shark and the cage

Possibly the same shark as before, but still a shark

Possibly the same shark as before, but still a shark

The cage, the shark and the bait

The cage, the shark and the bait

Shark, bait and cage

Shark, bait and cage





Frontier misrepresentation: the outcome

9 08 2009

Way back in April, we had some trials and tribulations with our volunteer project arranged by Frontier at Mokolodi Nature Reserve.

Nothing wrong with Mokolodi at all, merely an issue with Frontier who misrepresented the Botswana volunteer placement to us – which ultimately led us to engaging with them and the placement in Botswana.

We left the project at the end of April and received no follow-up from Frontier, perhaps understandable given the extent of their wrongdoing. However, they didn’t even provide us with a formal apology for misrepresenting the project, despite admitting liability in a very legalese email to us.

So, we carefully considered what the best next steps would be for us. The options seemed to be a small claims court claim or some sort of exposure in the UK press. After much debate, we concluded it was less about the money and more about ensuring other volunteers were aware of the issues we experienced.

After some effort from ourselves and a good friend in the UK PR industry, the UK journalist Mark Foxwell picked up and ran with the story for the Mail on Sunday. After some detailed investigation, it seemed that our predicament became a catalyst for a far larger story, exposing some serious financial irregularities between two ‘Frontier’ companies, owned by the same two directors.

The story “Not-for-profit gap year firm Frontier shares its fees…and its directors” was published online last night (Saturday 8th August) and will hopefully be in the Mail on Sunday today.

Needless to say, Caroline and I are satisfied with the result, and hope that future volunteers read the article and others published out there, before deciding who to hand their hard earned cash to before heading away on a volunteer project.





London to Melbourne

21 07 2009

Well, after a short two week interlude in London – essentially doing a bit of ‘work’, travelling round seeing people, eating and drinking – we’re finally making our way to Australia.

The past two weeks have flown by, and I certainly could’ve done with a couple more in London, but there you go. As I write, we’re transiting in Abu Dhabi on the way to Melbourne where we’ll be greeted by Jem and Dee – will be good to see them. After which, I think the next two weeks will be equally manic, sorting out accomodation, bank accounts, mobile phones and building up the business plan (that bit will be me, Caro is still undecided).

Whichever way it goes it’ll be exciting stuff, and I think we’re both looking forward to settling down finally after the past 6-months. More anon I hope…





Who to overland with in Africa?

9 07 2009

A recent piece in the Times examined the industry and ranked Dragoman as their number one choice for Overlanding.

Tim and I booked our overland trip with Intrepid, who outsource their African Overland trips to Dragoman. We were huge fans. Obviously everyone has differing needs on the road and you need to choose the company that is going to cater best to yours. But we felt that Dragoman provided friendly and capable crew, a vehicle in good nick, good routes, sensible itineraries and they attracted a good variety of people who were, as a rule, all happy to get in and contribute to the smooth running of the trip.

But we crossed paths with many (50+) overland trucks as we made our way around Africa, and we spoke to passengers from a few. And I get the impression that almost everyone we spoke to felt that their truck and the company that they had chosen were the best. Which adds up to a lot of happy travellers and hopefully some reassurance to people struggling to choose a company that they are probably going to be happy with their holiday at the end of the day.

The thing about overlanding is that how much you enjoy the trip is going to be influenced by how well you enjoy the company of your fellow passengers. And this is outside the control of the tour operators. Short of screening their passengers, they cannot guarantee the ‘type’of people that will be on the trip. Though obviously the reputations of different operators means they generally attract different travellers – so understanding their brand will help you understand the types of people you’ll probably end up travelling with.

For instance, we noticed that Acacia (English company, modern trucks  in good condition, really friendly and fun crew, similar route to us) seemed to attract a younger crowd. Their trucks we encountered had lots of students and gap year people and their youth seemed to be characterised by an eagerness to impress. They were painfully competitive – carrying on about things like whose truck was faster and  flashing their breasts and butts when their truck overtook us on road. And they were far more conscious of things like the way they looked. As an illustration, the girls on the Acacia truck were often spotted in the ladies toilets applying make-up – which seemed unnecessary, given the surroundings and the activities – and the vast majority of other overlanders seemed to be able to function happily without it. But they all looked to be having a great time – and I would recommend them highly to younger travellers.

Dragoman/Intrepid seemed to attract predominantly people between 20-35. The average age of our group was 30 – but we had quite a few 18-21 year olds too. At one stage we had a sixteen year old and her mother (and they were great) and one of the other Drago trucks had a lady in her sixties. So we were a real mix.

The only outwardly unhappy overlanders we encountered were a Kumuka truck which travelled alongside us for much of the time we were in Uganda. They were struggling with a vehicle which was repeatadly breaking down – and leaking tents. On a night we slept through a powerful storm, without a drop in any of our tents, the vast majority of the Kumuka truck were forced to evacuate their tents and sleep in the bar. And on top of the misery of wet sleeping bags and belongings, the campsite owner charged them for it! They were very unhappy campsers. But they are one of the cheaper players in the market – so maybe you get what you pay for. Regardless, a good friend of mine, who’s opinion I value, travelled with these guys in 2008 and recommended them to me: “Our overland tour was great – it was with Kumuka and we thought they were fantastic and wouldn’t hesitate to go with them again.”  His trip was without issue. So a lot of it is the luck of the draw.

Christie and the peeps from the Uganda and Rwanda route

Christie and the peeps from the Uganda and Rwanda route

What we liked about Dragoman/Intrepid

- The truck was spacious and old school. Comfortable but not too polished, still felt like we were roughing it a bit, authentic overlanding. We had one or two problems over the eight weeks we were onboard. But they were dealt with quickly and we were kept informed of what was going on. Our ability to stick to the itinerary was never affected.

- The truck was equipped with a fridge, library, comfortable seats and also some tables to play cards, write journals etc. whilst on the move. There were sockets for charging cameras and phones. Windows wound down all the way so taking photos was a breeze. Everyone got a chance to play their music (from their MP3 players through the truck speakers) during the drives.

- Rather than individual lockers we had one large luggage locker at the back of our truck. I preferred this. It meant that my bag didn’t have to be smaller than the dimensions of a fixed locker size (which it would have to if we had travelled with one of the companies providing individual lockers) and there was room for the other bibs and bobs (masks etc.) I bought along the way. The locker was managed in such a way that our belongings were safe and secure.

- Crew (driver, co-driver and cook – Matt then Jono, Emily and Denford) were diverse in age and nationality (British and Zimbabweans). They were good company, mixed well with us and were both friends and leaders, fun but professional – getting us where we needed to be, on time. They kept everyone happy. There were low-to-no issues amongst our groups – and if ever there were niggles these guys easily resolved them.

- Denford’s cooking was fabulous, tasty and healthy – we ate a mix of local cuisine (such a pap, eaten with our hands) and more familiar favourites.

Denford dishes up some of his fab food to Katie

Denford dishes up some of his fab food to Katie

- Whilst it was a “participation camping” style of trip, our daily jobs were easy and manageable

- Tents and bedrolls (yes, they supplied these – one less thing for us to carry) were in good nick and clean

- They managed the kitty well and at the end of some legs of the trip we actually got some money back, or got some additional activities covered. Bonus!

- They don’t skimp on the important things – like 4WD vehicles for safari in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater.

This article from the Independent that looks at overlanding is worth a read too…





Lions Tour – Johannesburg, 3rd Test

5 07 2009

The Lions won 28 to 9 against the Springboks – an excellent game and a great win (it was my 5th Test I’ve seen the Lions play, so good to get a win under the belt!). Riki Flutey and Jamie Heaslip both had standout performances, setting up tries for Shane Williams. Ugo seemed to struggle to get his hands on any decent ball, but his interception try, running the full length of the pitch was great to see, if a little embarassing for the Boks.

It wasn’t a perfect performance, but ultimately the Lions were by far the stronger and simply the better side, much as we had been in the 2nd Test and in the 2nd half of the 1st Test. So whilst the win means nothing in terms of the series, it is the first test win the Lions have had since Australia eight years ago.

The atmosphere at the game was good, but nowhere near the test at Loftus Versfeld. It seemed that a lot of the local fans considered it a bit of a nothing game, so didn’t turn up – or the tickets just weren’t sold. It was a shame to see large pockets of empty seats, but there you go.

After the game it was the usual drink-a-thon in hospitality, after which we took in a few bars in the Sandton, Rivonia, Sunninghill area.

Today, Chips and Trouve are braving their hangovers in the Apartheid Museum, Adam is with Meg in Sandton downtown, and I’m nursing myself in a mall in Rivonia near to our accomodation (which we spent a less than comical hour at 4am last night trying to find with a local cab driver who clearly didn’t know the area at all!).

Aside for losing the series, it’s been a great tour, and has cemented my belief that the Lions tour is the best rugby tour in the world. Bring on Australia!